Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Journeys End

We departed for the airport after a leisurely morning, taking a two hour ride on the Narita Express from Ofuna. Here we enjoyed a surprisingly empty Green car for the ride, which took us back through the heart of Tokyo to our terminal at the airport, which is about 10 miles east of the city. 
Here we had another opportunity to enjoy the native cuisine at a McDonalds, where two of our party ordered Teriyaki burgers. 
Near 5:00 pm local time we boarded a Washington built Boeing 787, arriving back in the US late that morning, ending our trip.
Maryrose heads back to the east coast in a few days after seeing some sights in San Francisco and Nathaniel and I will return in mid August at the end of our internship. 

-Theodore

Starting our train ride in an empty car on the Narita Express.

Our aircraft arriving at the terminal in Narita.

Goodbye, Japan 

Sunday, June 4, 2017

Termination in Tokyo

For our final entire day in Japan we visited the capital city, completing the planned itinerary of this two week venture. Tokyo is about ten miles north of our residence in Kamakura, requiring several train rides through the increasingly dense city environments that border the capital. Tokyo itself is not technically a city, but a unique entity referred to as a "metropolitan prefecture" which has characteristics of both a city and a prefecture. Regardless of this nomenclature, the Tokyo metropolis has a population of about 13 million people as opposed to the 8.5 million of New York City. Including the surrounding urban centers, Tokyo has the distinction of being part of the largest metropolitan area in the world with a population of over 37 million people.
Our first stop in this sprawling city was Shibuya, one of the 23 city wards of Tokyo, which besides being a popular shopping and entertainment area contains a famous intersection that can be considered as the Times Square of Tokyo. In addition to many neon lights and screens, which we could not fully appreciate in the bright daylight, this square is flooded by pedestrians whenever a crossing light turns green. In addition to the normal pedestrian crossings that are perpendicular to their respective streets, this square (as well as others which we saw in the city), has diagonal crossings due to the angles and number of intersecting streets. This arrangement results in the impressive and chaotic human flow which has made the area famous. 
We next took a short train ride to Shinjuku about a mile north of Shibuya, where we walked through several blocks and saw the head and fore claw of Godzilla protruding from the Shinjuku Toho Building. Feeling hungry at this point we proceeded to the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden where we ate lunch at a nice restaurant where we, in true Japanese fashion, ordered most of our food from a vending-like machine. There was some human interaction required in the drink specification phase so the experience was not completely devoid of life. 
After this repast, we returned to the Shinjuku station and travelled back south to Harajuku, which is known as a center of Japanese youth culture and fashion. Here we walked down the famous Takeshita Street where we saw many small shops and restaurants, as well as several costumed natives. 
After this interesting stroll we headed across the city to the Hamamatsucho station to walk to Tokyo Tower, an eiffelesque construction which is slightly taller at 333 meters than its Parisian counterpart (300 meters) but markedly slimmer, particularly at the base. We were all struck by this difference as we neared the structure, whose feeble legs do not need to bear the brunt of the weight of the tower due to a central shaft that runs up the center. Our walk to this landmark brought us through Shiba Park, where we passed among other sites the large Buddhist Zojoji Temple, whose traditional architecture creates a stark juxtaposition with the slender contours of the nearby Tokyo Tower. 
Arriving at the tower, we rode an elevator to the observation deck at 150 meters which offers a panoramic view of the city. On clear days Mt. Fuji can be seen about 125 kilometers to the south west, but we were denied a view of this conical icon due to a slight overcast. Here we got another opportunity to purchase a stamped souvenir coin, bringing our total from this trip to three (The Hiroshima Castle and Mikasa were the other two). 
We ended our visit to this city with a walk south to the Tamachi station during which we enjoyed ice cream from a seven eleven.

-Theodore


Nathaniel outside Shinjuku station.



Nathaniel and the author in a panoramic view of the Shibuya intersection. This Sunday morning was not the busiest time to visit but there were crowds nonetheless.
 
Maryrose with Godzilla in the background

 
The author and Maryrose at lunch.

 
Nathaniel with his lunch

 
The entrance to Takeshita Street in the Harajuku ward.

 
Several costumed characters on Takeshita Street.


The other end of the street with the Harajuku station in the background

 
A Bodhisattva in Shiba Park. 



A performer with monkey in the park.

 
The author in front of the Zojoji Temple and Tokyo Tower. The two storied white block about midway up the tower is the main observation deck that we visited.

 
Little figures around the temple dedicated to children.

 
The tower up close.



Tokyo viewed from the tower.

 
A long way down.

 
Some sort of go cart tour in the city. Each rider was dressed as a character from the Mario Kart video game. 

 
Maryrose and the author on the way to the Tamachi station.



Saturday, June 3, 2017

Yesterday in Yokosuka

Our first morning in Kamakura found us taking the non-JR train from Gokurakuji to Kamakura station from where we departed for Yokosuka (pronounced yoh-kus-ka). Although a relatively short distance, for some reason the train trip required two stages, as the first train did not go all the way, meaning we arrived after our fourth train ride of the day.
Departing from the train, we headed straight towards our first destination, the aptly named Mikasa Park, where the pre-dreadnought battleship Mikasa resides. Built in the late 1890s, Mikasa served as Admiral Togo Heihachiro's flagship during the Russo-Japanese War. Sunk two days after the war when her magazine accidentally exploded, she was salvaged and eventually repaired and participated in World War I. After the Washington Naval Treaty of 1922 Mikasa was decommissioned and converted to a museum ship at Yokosuka where she resides today. After severe neglect following World War II, an effort to refurbish the ship (championed by Chester Nimitz, an admirer of Admiral Togo) was commenced and ultimately completed.
We found Mikasa park flooded with tourists as some sort of musical event was going on in the park. Fortunately the ship was high ground in this touristy inundation and we did not have to wait long to board. Shortly after boarding we were greeted by a English-speaking volunteer who is a retired captain in the JMSDF. He gave us a brief history of the ship and pointed out the post WWII renovations that can easily be identified by welded seams (as opposed to rivets). After wandering around above decks we proceeded below where we encountered a number of exhibits. There were several models of the Mikasa as well as of other museum ships including HMS Victory and the USS Constitution. Several high-tech exhibits were also present including an interactive simulation of the Battle of the Sea of Japan, digital diagrams of the ship which users can explore, and some sort of VR experience whose prohibitively large lines prevented us from experiencing it for ourselves.
Leaving the ship we walked into the nearby US Naval base at Yokosuka, where we found lunch in a burger place at the bowling alley. We ate in a nearby park in sight of the Mikasa across the bay and finished our day after stopping at the commissary where we picked up some needed groceries.

-Nathaniel


Theodore and The Author in front of another gun from the Mutsu on the way to Mikasa park.

 
The Author and Theodore in front of the ship.

 
The only remaining portion of the original wood deck of the ship.

 
The Author at the bow of the ship.

 
Maryrose manning one of the forward three inch guns.

 
Natogo, Maryroshima, and Theosaburo 

 
Theodore, Admiral Togo, and Maryrose 

 
Lunch in sight of the ship.

Friday, June 2, 2017

Kamakura and Kotokuin

Our final trip east brought us via Shinkansen from Hamamatsu to Odawara, from where we travelled on the Tokaido line to the beach town of Kamakura, located about 10 miles south of the heart of Tokyo. During the former ride we passed the slopes of Mt. Fuji, the tallest mountain in Japan, whose snow capped peak was shrouded in clouds, only to be revealed to us at the outset of the latter commute.
After reaching Kamakura station we decided to walk to our Airbnb, stopping first at the temple of Kotokuin which is conveniently located midway between these two points. Kotokuin is home to the famous Daibutsu, or Great Buddha, which is a giant statue of Buddha made from bronze. The statue was constructed from 1252 to about 1262 and weighs about 121 tons. The interior of the statue is hollow and all three of us had the opportunity to enter this cavity, from which the surprisingly modern construction techniques used in this statue can be seen. The cavity is lit naturally from two wire mesh screens in the back of the statue.  
After this visit we proceeded to our Airbnb, which is located in a quiet neighborhood amid the hills to the west of central Kamakura. 

-Theodore


Mt. Fuji viewed from the Shinkansen.
 
As we departed Odawara on the Tokaido line, we glimpsed the snow capped peak of the famous mountain.

 
Maryrose and the author in front of the statue.

 
A watermelon offering to the deity. 

 
The back of the statue, showing the openings that provide illumination to the interior cavity. 

 
The inside of the head of the statue viewed from the interior. 


 
Nathaniel in front of the statue.

 
The Pacific Ocean. The beach here has dark sand and smells like kelp.

Thursday, June 1, 2017

Haikus in Hamamatsu



In Hamamatsu,
our goal: to visit the zoo
So, Hamamatzoo?



Maryrose: bunny.
Therefore, Nathaniel: Lyons
See what I did there?



Bouncy kangaroos!
Except they walk on four legs...
So, not that bouncy.

 

Tried to call the birds,
but I'm not Mary Poppins?
How disappointing.

 

An angry eagle-
he has feathers, he's not bald-
plotting his escape.

 

If I ever saw
beetles the size of my hands, 
I would run away.

 

Hey, it's Rubius!
Hey Rubes! Oh, whoops, wrong feline.
Must be his cousin.

 

Lion count: one, two.
One by birth, one by nomen.
Basically the same.

 

A buff buffalo
buffalos a buffalo
back to Buffalo.

 

Hey Mister Giraffe!
That's a long neck you got there.
How you holdin' up?

 

Zebra stripes: are they
white on black, or black on white?
One for the ages.

 

Many pigs survive
without functional sweat glands
because they wallow. 

 

Peacocks strut around
like showgirls (except they're male):
Nature's Las Vegas.

 

One brown bear pacing,
One brown bear in a hot tub.
One knows how to live.

 

Bright pink flamingos!
Oh jeez, look closer, my friends-
Their knees bend backwards.

 

Sans Gentoo penguins,
how can a zoo be a zoo? 
This place has no class.

 

Seal or sea lion:
how to differentiate?
Visible earflaps.

 

I'm a polar bear.
I belong in snow and ice.
Thank God for this pool.

 

"¿Cómo te llamas?"
"Ah, tu hablas español!
Me llamo llama!"

 

A tiny airplane,
Flying so high in the sky-
Airbase is nearby.         (-Nathaniel)

-Maryrose